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Cala Luna

Sam and I went to a restaurant called Cala Luna last night. Rustic Italian food by the water with red wine and limoncellos to finish. Mmm mmm.

The first thing that struck me about Cala Luna was the patio chairs and paper tablecloths sitting outside the restaurant front door. Situated in Mosman next to restaurants like Orso, the restaurant doesn’t seem to fit in somehow - like a shabby, country cousin out alone in the big city. It has a lovely trattoria feel to it, complete with homey pictures on the walls and dusty wine bottles lining the window sills, but the dining area itself is very simple. I would say it’s only able to seat 30 people at one time, and only if half those people are one party seated on the long table.

But on to the food. Satisfying, flavoursome and simple. My entree was palm-sized field mushrooms on a bed of zesty rocket, topped with a creamy blue-cheese sauce and crispy strips of pancetta. Although the first few bites were velvety and decadent, the richness of this dish got to me halfway and I couldn’t finish everything on my plate. Sam’s entree looked amazing: grilled trout tossed with a sundried tomato sauce and home-made egg pasta. Throughout the meal, he kept saying it was one of the best pastas he’d ever had.

Now the mains. I was a bit disappointed when it first arrived, as it just looked too simple. Imagine a big white plate with sliced lamb loins on either side, perfectly pink in the middle. No sauce. A small, round hump of herbs and chopped up olives in the middle, perfectly formed as if thunked out of a plastic mould. A wedge of lemon. That was it. I expected something a bit more. Nevertheless, the meat was perfect - tender and sweet - with the herbs a perfect compliment. The tang of the olives also added a nice touch. It was missing something though…not sure what. Simplicity seems to be the name of the game with this restaurant. A journalist friend of mine, who reviewed Cala Luna for an airline magazine, also remarked that his dish was very simple. It was suckling pig, supposedly their signature dish.

For dessert, I ordered an orange polenta cake, while Sam tucked into a home-made lemon tart. I’ve never tried polenta cake before, so I was keen to give it a go. I’m not sure if I’m a fan. I imagined polenta cake to be like polenta: moist, slightly gooey yet firm, with a subtle, grainy texture. This cake was a lot rougher in the mouth and incredibly chewy. I didn’t like it that much, although the caramel flavoured gelato that accompanied it was nice. Sam’s tart, on the other hand, was absolutely heavenly. The best bit was the complimentary mandarin limoncellos. Once I got over the nail polish remover burn that accompanies the fruit taste, it was quite a pleasant drink.

I’m not sure if this place will get a write-up in my mag, as our readership is predominantly corporate/business and the restaurant was distinctly casual in feel. The bonus with such an intimate setting is that the staff are all in some way connected to the restaurant. You get the feeling that they are invested in each dish and are really keen for you to enjoy the evening. I also loved the way the menu wine matches every offering, even the entrees, with its own wine. For the unadventurous like me who tend to only stick to the safe Cabernet Savignon, it’s a helpful touch. I recommend for a date, or as somewhere to take your parents for a special meal.

Restaurant: Cala Luna, Location: 235 Spit Road, Mosman, Bookings: 9968 2426 - no website, prices: mains average around the $30 mark, with entrees at around $20. There is a degustation meal option as well.

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